Like all babies, puppies need lots of love and cuddling, lots of rest and sleep, lots of good, nourishing food and more love and cuddling. Moving to a new home, leaving their dam and litter mates and the only humans they have ever really known is a very traumatic experience for the puppy, so try to make the move as easy as possible for them. For the first couple of weeks, try to change their life as little as possible. Be sure they have a special area all their own for their bed. Give them lots and lots of cuddling and petting. Do not let them play so long and hard that they become exhausted. Once the puppy is settled securely into their new home, you can begin to introduce them to your way of doing things.

You will want to find a qualified veterinarian BEFORE receiving a new puppy in your home.Your baby is required to have a "well-baby check up" by your vet soon after the pup’s arrival at your home. As in all professions, there are a few veterinarians that are looking to make extra money (scam) and overcharge the owners of puppies with unneeded exams and costs. Ask a lot of questions. It is best to have a veterinarian with experienced in the breed you have acquired, especially for future surgical procedures like a spay or neuter. On your first vet visit take along the puppy’s immunization record.

Do NOT set your puppy down on the floor at the vet office and do not let other pets or people in the office approach and/or touch the pup. Many are there because they are sick and have yet to see the vet for diagnosis.

It is NOT wise to make sudden changes in diet. For the first couple of weeks change nothing. The pup is stressed enough by moving away from its siblings, possible travel to its new home, all the excitement of a new environment and new people. Puppy stress can often cause diarrhea. Do not compound the problem and cloud the issue for the vet by a dietary change too soon. A little canned pumpkin added to the pup's food will help with stress diarrhea. After a couple of weeks when the pup has settled in, if you wish to change diets do so gradually. Add some of the new food in with the old. Slowly increasing the amount of the new diet until the change is complete.

Potty training can be challenging but the key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area each time, as soon as they wake up, about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when they're awake, just before their nap or night bedtime. The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before they go to bed for the night. Always praise the puppy as they are going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. Very few dogs will soil their beds, so it is best to keep them confined at night and any time you cannot watch them. If you see the pup "hunting" (sniffing and circling) take them outside immediately. If you see them urinating or defecating in the house, say "NO, NO" and take them outside at once. Do not scold them unless you catch them in the act. Praise for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember, a puppy is a baby, their capacity is small, their muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will succeed in training them to go outside not inside.

The next project will be lead training. The earlier you start the better, but, if your puppy has not had any lead training before you get them, wait a week or so until they have settled comfortably into their new home before you begin. You will need a light weight "choke chain" collar and a light weight lead. The collar should be long enough to slip over their head with ease and have some room for growth, but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference of their neck. Put the collar on the puppy so that it goes over their neck from the left to right. Fasten the lead to the collar and let the puppy lead you around. If they don't move, move a bit and coax them to move after you. Do not ever pull on the lead and drag or choke the puppy. This should be a happy experience for the puppy so give them lots of praise. As they becomes used to walking about with the collar and lead, begin to give little tugs and encourage them to follow you rather than you following them. Always keep them on your left side. Keep their lessons short. Several five to ten minutes sessions a day are better than one half hour session. Do not play with the puppy during the lesson, but do praise them often when they follow you. Once they is following you with consistency you can begin taking them on walks around the neighborhood (Only after the complete series of puppy shots have been given). You will probably need to give him several gentle tugs the first few times to keep them with you rather than exploring on their own. You may need to stop and talk to him a few times. Again, do not pull on the lead and drag or choke them. A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the way to control them. Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of praise when they do it right, a quick jerk and release to correct when they don't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and he will soon be walking nicely at your side. If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to train him to stand still and let you hold their head. Start this training along with the lead training as early as possible.